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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.