Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
